Jamorama Video Review
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When the winter is fast approaching, your job as a homeowner is to keep your home warm against the harsh cold outside. And when it comes to producing heat, you are expected to pump up your heating system in order to keep everything comfortable. This means you are going to burn more heating oil, use more electricity, and eventually increase energy consumption.
But it doesn’t mean you just tolerate the increase in energy consumption. There are several ways that you can actually be more practical but at the same time make sure you and your family are still comfortable and protected against the winter cold.
To cut down heating costs, there is no need to compromise on comfort. Here are some important energy conservation ideas for winter time that will benefit you in the long run:
Maintain the Heating Equipment
You have to realize that your heating equipment will not clean on its own. Accordingly, it’s dirt and neglect on the owner’s part that primarily cause the entire system to fail. So if the heating equipment is more than ten years old, it is very important to have an expert check and inspect it. In order to make sure that yours will work on its optimum efficiency, enable heating system maintenance.
Next energy conservation tip is using a programmable thermostat. You have the ability to control your home’s ideal temperature even while you are away or you’re sleeping at night. To do that, you have to use the pre-programmed settings of the programmable thermostat. This means you can program it to lower the temperature when you’re not around. The nice thing about these new and modern thermostats is that they let you save about $200 per year in energy consumption and costs.
Sealing Air Leaks
Have you ever wondered why you’re burning too much heating oil? Not a lot of homeowners know that air leaks found all over the home will contribute a lot in the consumption of energy for producing warm temperature inside, regardless of that energy in the form of heating oil, gas, or electricity. What you need to do therefore is seal air leaks. You can do that by using caulk, spray, foam, or weather stripping. Guaranteed, there will be a considerable difference because the heat produced inside will not be trapped and circulated sufficiently, while the cold weather outside won’t be allowed to get in through those leaks.
Replace or Change Filters
Also, do not tolerate the use of dirty and worn out filters in your heating system. Just like your air conditioning system, the filter in your heating system has to be cleaned or changed from time to time. A dirty filter will render the heating equipment inefficient in functionality. If you do change the filter when it’s about time, you are giving yourself the chance to save about ten to fifteen percent of annual energy costs.
You might want to seek recommendations from the authorities in energy conservation. You can use Energy Star’s Home Energy Advisor for those proven energy-saving home improvement tips. This way, you can compare your home’s energy use to other homes of similar needs all over the country. Eventually, you’ll see how your home energy consumption compares to the rest and what you can do about it.
Although it looks like a senseless idea, shutting the doors of the rooms that you don’t frequently go to or stay will be crucial in your hope of conserving energy and eventually saving more on your bills. Doors and vents that are left open will mean warm air will go in those rooms where no one is staying, thereby wasting energy in the process.
Clear Plastic Sheeting
If you can clear plastic sheeting on your windows, you are actually increasing insulation inside. Also, it’s one way of limiting the buildup of ice drafts without you exerting that much effort and expenses.
Purchase Heating Oil Early
If you are using heating oil at home, it is best for you to purchase the oil earlier, or right before winter. it is known to everybody whose using it that buying oil right in the middle of winter means you will be settling for significantly higher price trends. What’s the reason? That’s because there is more demand for it, which naturally means oil delivery companies will take advantage.
As a reminder, the idea of conserving energy is by no means about compromising your comfort. There is a good reason why you need heating during the winter, and that is to make sure your family is safe from the risks and dangers associate with extremely cold weather. Therefore, never think of turning off your heating system right in the middle of an extreme cold temperature just because you want to be practical on your energy use. Energy conservation does not work that way. It’s actually a case of effective management and maintenance.
By definition, optometrists are primary health care providers who specialize at examining, diagnosing, and treating various types of disorders and illnesses related to the eye. When looking for an eye doctor Chelsea NYC, they are one of the most sought after health care providers when it comes to vision related problems. As such, they form a vital part of the general health care system.
When it comes to eye care, optometrists are experts in the comprehensive examination of the eye structures, the purpose of which is to determine, detect, and eventually diagnose imminent problems like the following:
Maintaining good eye health is essential and optometrists are there to help out in making sure everyone is in the right direction when it comes to taking good care of their eyes. Accordingly, part of that eye care objective is to prescribe and provide eyeglasses and contact lenses to the people who need them. Also, they’re the ones qualified to hand out low vision aids and vision therapy. Furthermore, they can also prescribe medications to address or even to the extent, treat eye diseases. In fact, they have the capacity to perform and carry our surgeries if need be. Finally, the optometrist’s job description also includes the testing of the patient’s ability to do eye coordination and focusing, as well as judging depth perception and accurate determination of colors.
Why Do You Need to See an Optometrist?
Everyone has to be reminded that the gift of vision is one of the most important ones given you us by God. In fact, there’s little argument in the notion that the sense of sight is the most important of all. It gives us the ability to see the world around us.
In this regard, the objective of preserving one’s eye health is considered a must. It is a responsibility for every person to take good care of his eyes and vision and with the help of a great eye doctor. The eye doctor in this sense is the optometrist.
You need to understand that everyone needs to see an optometrist. If you don’t value or recognize the need for one, you have to continue reading.
For one, the optometrist is the person you will visit if you need prescription for glasses or contact lenses. But contrary to what most people believe in, they’re actually more than just handing out the right glasses and lenses. You find and call in this type of eye doctor when you are in need of someone who will treat as well as manage your eye diseases and issues. Since they’re considered as doctors, they can legitimately diagnose illnesses connected or linked to the eyes and the rest of the body. In fact, a comprehensive eye examination conducted and performed by the optometrist will most likely determine and locate systemic diseases like diabetes and high blood pressure.
Finally, be reminded that the optometrist is a noble and very important profession. Without these eye doctors, there is no possible way for us to be able to secure a good set of eyes, especially when it comes to both prevention and treatment of eye diseases and illnesses.
Yes, you’re most likely scared of the dentist. But you have to realize you’re actually not alone. Dentist fear or phobia is something that has become a traditional occurrence in mostly all people, young ones or adults. And while it’s perfectly normal considering the kind of reputation dentists have and the nature of the procedures performed inside the dental clinic, it doesn’t mean you can escape by avoiding the dentist once and for all. Obviously, that’s not the right thing to do.
Anyhow, the good news is that we have in here a concise but helpful guide on how to overcome your fear of an Allentown dentist and eventually defeat your own senses. Again, be reminded that the purpose of learning to embrace the tips below is for you to be able to willingly visit the office the next time around.
Tip 1 – Dental phobia is normal.
You should be happy to hear this. It means you’re still a normal human being and not someone who’s different from the others. Yes, going to the dentist may not be as fun as doing other things. One reason for the lack of fun is the fact that a good dentist will touch and poke on a very sensitive part of the body, the mouth and teeth. Also, one other cause of dental fear is experience. You may have an earlier experience with the dentist when you were younger and that likely involves tooth extraction. But then again, the point here is you can actually overcome that fear in the process.
Tip 2 – Finding a good dentist will help a lot.
This is quite true. In order to help yourself overcome the fear and eventually agree to a comprehensive dental exam, you need to find a good dentist. Doing so will help you feel a lot more comfortable. The good one fully understands that a patient like you is expected to be anxious. Hence, he will work as much as possible in order to increase the comfort level of the entire dental exam. There are a lot of things dentists do in order to put some limit on the fear of patients and solutions include sedation, hypnosis, and tons of convincing. Anyhow, you’ll know a dentist fits your needs by first impression.
Tip 3 – Sedation is last resort.
If all else fails, sedation is the last option. Unfortunately, there are instances when overcoming your fear is beyond the dentist’s capabilities. But don’t lose hope since there’s a thing called sedation. There are several sedation options and rest assured they are all safe. For instance, they can give you a pill an hour before the actual appointment for making your nerves calm down. But for maximum sedation, a general anesthesia may be used especially in dental surgeries.
Tip 4 – One step at a time.
Your visit to the dentist does not happen in a blink of an eye. As a matter of fact, you are going to be building a long term relationship with the one you see fits your needs. The start of that relationship normally starts with a comprehensive examination. At this point, you have to take it one step at a time. If you think of all the things needed in order to fix your teeth, you tend to build some fear. What you need to do instead is consider the first visit as a feeling out process while the second one is about cleaning, and so on.
Search Engine Optimization can help local business owners really take control of getting new customers. How? Well, it’s simple. Identify the search phrases that potential customers are using to find your products and services. Then start targeting those keywords in the content that you are placing on the internet. Don’t get me wrong, there are a lot of elements that go into SEO so unless you want to hire an employee that specializes in SEO or you want to take SEO on as another job duty, the best bet is to hire a SEO specialist. Someone like Lehigh Valley SEO specialist, Brett Lewis. I came across his video and gave him a call.
I got home from work today to find out that we have no running water in the house. I’m not sure if the water has been cut off or if it is a plumbing problem. Water has been flooding out of the toilet tank and the washing maching. Water got all over my floors. We turned off the valves to both but the toilet still floods. Any ideas what is going on here? Maybe the water was cut off and the extra water is coming from the water heater? Perhaps some pipe has a leak? I can’t call the water company until tomorrow, they were already closed when I got home from work. I live in a neighborhood that has a shared water valve, so I can’t turn that off. The meter in the yard has no valve to turn off. Help. The water flooding from the washer and toilet is coming from their cold water valves. It’s cold, clean water. Essentially — you should still have a shut off for the water supply for your house even if there isn’t one at the meter in the yard. I suggest looking for it. You also didn’t say if the water was coming out from the drains or the supplies. If you shut off the supply to the toilet and water is still pouring out it may be the drain backflowing somehow. Sounds like you may need to call a plumber asap. since it sounds like it is the water supply, look in the basement for a shut off trace your water lines back or look on the side of the basement that the water meter is on. If it’s a crawl space, same thing. there should be a shutoff if there isn’t, someone made a boo boo.
See more: Learn about the secret life of your home’s plumbing system, including how water flows into your home and how the drainage syst. . .
I am doing the roof of my garage with corrugated plastic, and I will need to cut into it to make it fit some rounded areas. How on earth do you do that though? This stuff seems to be uncontrollable. Any experience, anyone? Thanks. After looking around, I learned — Be careful not to use snips as the material will crack around the cuts and could shatter. Use either a fine bladed hand saw which will take time to cut. Do not push the saw as this could cause the cracking again. Let the saw do the work with just a gentle pressure. The blade should be thin similar to a junior hacksaw. You can use a power jig saw but the same rules apply. Little pressure and let the saw move forward slowly. With the power saw be sure to have the material held down around the cutting area. Alternatively by the flat plastic twin wall material and this is a little easier to work with and will last for far longer as the corrugated material becomes brittle after a relatively short time. I have done perhaps 50 garage and car port roofs over my working life.
Gable Roofing is a local OK company providing customer satisfaction with their new roof and pleasant experience in buying from Ga. . .
I want to replace my kitchen taps (one hot and one cold) with a mixer tap so I’ll need the existing water pipes to be moved towards each a few inches each (where the mixer tap is going to go). Can I simply bend the copper pipes so they reach? Do I need to be careful of anything? Could there be anything I need to do before I bend them? Thanks very much, all help is greatly appreciated. I was happy to learn… Get some flexible tap connectors cut the pipes off and use the flexible connectors it is a bit awkard to bend pipes in situ as 15mm+ pipes would need a tool to bend it and from what you describe its a small distance its easier to use flexible connectors or amend pipe work approx 6 inches or more below the connection at the moment
Learn how to properly insulate around plumbing pipes so you don’t have to worry about them freezing.
. Basically… There are two types of geothermal energy. Hi temperature geothermal is dependent upon volcanic activity to heat water to steam that can then run turbines and produce electricity. The type of geothermal energy used for heating and cooling is dependent upon refrigeration techniques that use the ground for a heat sink or a heat source (depending on if it is being used for heating or cooling) It is sometimes called a “ground source heat pump system. “1 While the appropriate wells can be drilled almost anywhere using a body of water avoids the expense of wells altogether and makes this form of heating/cooling very economical. 3 The wells are the major expense. Alternatively long coils can be buried 6 to 10′ underground where this is more practical. 2 While the initial installation can be quite expensive, “with the passage of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, you will receive tax credits worth 30% of the cost (no limit or cap) to install an Energy Star qualified geothermal heat pump in your home to help offset the higher installation costs (system must be installed before December 31, 2016). Visit www. Energystar. Gov for more information. ”
Learn about Geothermal Heating & Cooling and how it can save your family tons in heating and cooling costs. Fowler Heating and Cooling, has been serving Sout. . .
Hello. I am having an issue with a Kohler toilet. The bowl fills pretty high but the tank takes about 4 minutes to fill high enough to raise the float and turn the water off. The water pressure is very strong so that is not the issue and the rubber flap is brand new. Let me know if you need more info since i’m not sure what else to describe. Thanks. After looking around, I learned — OK, you say the tank fills but takes a long time. Assuming there are no leaks, the tank will hold the water it fills with. Your only issue is how long it takes to fill. Pressure is one thing. Flow is another. You can have 100 pounds of pressure but if you’re filling your tank through a pin hole it will take forever to fill. On a different hand, you might have only 10 pounds of pressure but if you’re filling it through a 2 inch hole, it will fill fairly quickly. Assuming there are no problems with the tank and its ability to hold water, your issue sounds like a flow problem than a pressure problem. And I’ve seen this before. A neighbor had a slow filling toilet so she bought a new tank valve assembly and installed it. But it didn’t solve her problem. When she asked me if I knew anything about it I realized that her issue was the same as what yours sounds to be. So I had her turn the water off and I disassembled the water valve on the wall. When I got it opened I could see there was a ton of calcification in the valve, choking off the supply. We went back to the hardware store and bought a new valve and installed that. Turned the water on and the toilet was full in around 30 seconds. It’s been a long time so I don’t remember if that was ACTUALLY the time it took, but it did fill at a normal speed, and her problem was solved. I’d suggest you turn off the water to the toilet and drain your tank. Disconnect the feed hose from the toilet inlet and get a bucket. Put the hose into the bucket AND HOLD IT THERE with one hand and with the other, turn the water back on and see if you get a lot of water fast, or if it’s a mere trickle. If it’s a trickle then you’ve confirmed the water flow is not there. Next, shut the main water supply off and bleed off all the pressure from both hot and cold lines. Then turn the valve on the water heater off too. Why? Because it can cause a residual pressure making water flow and you can have a spill. No sense in getting water damage in the house. With the main off, remove the handle from the toilet valve (if you can) then remove the cover nut that holds the valve together. Remove the guts and inspect. If you see a bunch of hard stuff clogging the valve then you know you need a new valve. Don’t attempt to clean the valve and reuse it. Chances are that when you need to shut it off in the future you won’t be able to. A new valve is cheap enough and is good insurance that the job is done right and can be used at a later time. If none of this helps then you might have a clogging pipe. There can be considerable buildup inside galvanized plumbing. The only solution for that is to replace the plumbing. If you have copper, they shouldn’t build up mineral deposits the same way galvanized does. But copper is softer, and it’s possible – though remote – someone may have accidentally hit a pipe and caused it to pinch or kink. But I really doubt that. Or you may have PEX tubing (for all intents and purposes, plastic). That stuff is really hard to damage or kink. But I suppose if one tries hard enough, the line COULD be compromised. But I still suspect that somewhere you have galvanized pipes that have necessary mineral deposits. My home is completely redone in PEX. I love the stuff. Easy to work with and fast. Re-plumbed the whole house in about six hours time. BUT I still have a galvanized line from the meter to the house. At some point I will probably have to dig that out and replace it with either copper or PEX. Too bad there’s no easy way to pull one out while pulling the other in. I’ll have to dig up the whole yard for that one. Lets hope I never have to. Best of luck with your project. ‘'
WEBSITE*** This video covers how to install a toilet. Includes how to remove a toilet bowl or pan and cistern and install th. . .
I am looking into getting into plumbing in canada and I would like to know some of the details on it. I am already accepted to a plumbing course and I would like to know if its steady work or long periods during the year without work. Because I want to work steady. Is it extreamly hard work or not? Any details would be perfect. I was happy to learn… Plumbing is pretty steady work, because you do more than just unclog people’s drains and stuff. The plumber can be useful for anything that involves the piping and fluid service to a home or building, and that includes installation of piping for newly built homes or buildings. You may also be able to contract yourself to universities and other large corporations for good money to do the piping and service to their buildings. Do a good job and they’ll ask for you again. Plumbing and electricians are good fields to get into because they’re skilled trades that everybody needs.
Shannon from shows you how to cut copper plumbing pipes and solder copper pipes together with an elbow joint.
The flat roof on a rental properties carport had a bad section of wood. It was rotten. I cut out, removed, and replaced a 48″ x 32″ piece of rotten plywood with a piece of good wood. I cut the roll roofing a couple of inches beyond the cut of the wood. Now I need to put any sort of asphalt roofing back on to replace the rectangular piece of roll roofing that I removed. I have a bundle of plain white 3 tab shingles and a plenty of roofing felt, but no roll roofing. Could I cut the tabs off the plain white shingles and use the remaining pieces along with any lap compound to cover the wood in the hole that I fixed? Or should I break down and buy a full roll of roll roofing even though I’ll probably never use it all. What I found out was – I would buy the roll roofing as it is designed for this purpose. You could, depending on code, coat it with tar and do your own asphalt job on it. That would probably be cheaper and last longer. But the shingles are a bad way to go, unfortunately.
Please visit our ebay store at . . . Www. Minthillbillystore. Com This video shows the importance of the starter shingle and how and where to place it. As well a. . .
Map of underground pipes in my home. Well, I have your answer. It is very doubtful that your local Building Department would have required plumbing schematics when your house was built. I have only ever heard of one Building Department ever requiring plumbing schematics. Even if plumbing schematics are available, they do not show where the pipes are, just how they are laid out, and they wouldn’t be “as-builts”, only proposals. The best way to find out is to find out where the building drain leaves the basement. This is found by the cleanout that you will find in newer homes. Not so much in older houses. It will be a 4 inch ABS screw cap that is left level with your concrete floor slab. If you know this location, it would be the shortest route to the plumbing fixtures. There is no science to it as many of the elbows will be 45 or 90 degree elbows and you never know where they will be. Sorry for the bad news. Hopefully it is not an emergency.
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I like to get some estimates for a new robber roof but have no idea what material to ask for. Can someone tell me what is good to use on a flat roof. Thank you. Basically… They are named membrane roofs. They are all made of the same composite material. Just get two or three estimates and ask each one to describe the material so you get a consistent comparison. They are glued on in as few sheets as possible and they will last forever. Be very sure they give you detailed information on how they intend to position and do the edges for drainage that will go into the gutters and not run down the wall behind the gutters. Also, do a review of a electrical, venting and insulation work that might need doing in that ceiling before the membrane is installed. That’s always much easier and cheaper from the top down.
Best Way Roofers SupplyPeopleChoosing The Right Roofing Material2010-04-22T19:56:54. 000Z2013-11-22T07:15:09. 000Z
I’m interested to know as many different companies that make polypipe and fittings to suit (e. G. Viega) that are suitable for Hot/cold water and natural gas. I have found many that are suitable for hot/cold but not for gas. I am installing plumbing into my own home and prefer to use as little copper piping as possible, its just easier to buy a roll and chop it to length than having huge long RIGDID lengths of copper tubing. *RIDGID. Do you know what I found? I Don’t know the building codes down under. I didn’t think you guys had plumbing. Here we Yanks use black iron piping for gas lines. Copper is mostly used only for flexible connections to a kitchen stove or dryer so they can be moved when you clean or for minor repairs. Any kind of plastic piping for gas is a dumb idea (sorry.) because of the danger of it being broken accidentally. I’m sure it will come as a big shock, but we Yanks don’t know everything. I’m guessing, so don’t put any faith in my opinion that copper lines would probably be okay. The best thing to do is check with your building codes, assuming you don’t live in the outback somewhere where you can do whatever you want.
32 years in this business has shown me a thing or two. Using sharkbite fittings is quite easy to do for the average home owner. . . . Please subscribe and have a . . .
Hell• i’m currently doing plumbing and electrical installation level 1 at college. I have been offered a place in electrical installation level2. This means I only have 2 years of college if I go into level two but my maths is not very good. . So im not sure if I should go and do it although im not really bothered which one I do?. someone help me please with any good advice. Many thanks . After looking around, I learned — === no P . . Go to the E-install for the money === if you are good at the E-biz then you will have more work than you can ever hope to handle and the money is very good . . And when you run into a social security granny you can lower the bill and feel good that your life is in the right place . . Electrical work will always be there and you can do it yourself and have helpers that you can teach and send off to college. .
Who is allowed to do plumbing on a commercial property in California? Is just anyone allowed to plumb on a commercial property in CA? For example: the maintenance man? Does the maintenance man need a plumbing license? Please, if anyone knows. Well, I have your answer right here. Most plumbing laws are in effect where only a master plumber or his licensed employees can work on a job until it has a final inspection by the plumbing authority for that area. After that the owner can do any thing he wants BUT being a build with other residents other then the owner ? Call the city plumbing inspector, Id ask
Shannon from shows you how to cut copper plumbing pipes and solder copper pipes together with an elbow joint.
Wantto know what to ask contractor when gives me a estemet on my roof. I think I found an answer. 1. License 2. Insurance ( Make sure its for roofing or else you will pay in the end if his work fails and his insurance is for handyman or carpenter ) 3. How long he has been in buisness 4. Ask if he personally does the work, or if he has a crew 5. Ask if he will be present on the job 6. Ask type of warranty 7. Ask what type shingle he uses (owens corning, Certainteed etc ) what are the advantages of this product 8. Ask how much ventilation is needed and what product he uses 9. Make sure he puts new flashings up and not re-uses old ones 10. Ask for any discounts/promotions his company runs Most dimensional shingles offer a lifetime warranty on shingle failure which must be installed to manufacture specifications, if it is not followed they will deny your claim so make sure on what product he uses he follows the specifications. also he can’t guarantee you a lifetime roof, he can only guarantee his workmanship for a certain period of time, dont fall for the “i guarantee this roof for life line” its only guaranteed if its followed by manufacture specs and like I said to a T . .
I understand that it is essentially a loop in which a refrigerant travels around through the Earth’s interior either cooling or heating and in the end expending that temperature into a home or building. As we know, technology is always progressing and ways of becoming more innovative and efficient are always just around the corner. . So my question is. . 1. ) What are any efforts or discoveries that increase the efficiency of the energy conversion in the process of Geothermal heating and cooling? So from what I interpret, are there any new ways to make the refrigerant travel faster. . Different types of refrigerant that are more efficient. . A compressor that is able to get the job done more efficiently. . Etc. . I had an idea though, I heard different types of refrigerants may be used such as air, water. . Etc. After looking around, I learned — I agree with the prior poster that your understanding is not accurate Basically a Geothermal HVAC (or Ground Source Heat Pump) uses water or a water/antifreeze mixture in the heat exchanger. This water is either recirculated in a very long underground pipe system (closed system) or drawn from a well, lake or other water source (open system). In cooling mode (A/C) a geothermal heat pump uses refrigerant to move heat from the building into the water via a heat exchanger. In heating mode, it operates in the reverse and moves heat from the water to the refrigerant and ultimately the building. A standard heat pump operates in the same manner however instead of using ground temperature water, it uses ambient temperature outdoor air. The greatest advantages of geothermal heat pumps in a 4 season climate is that they are much more efficient than the alternative when outdoor temperatures are at their extremes. For example: When it is 25F outside, my geothermal system is pumping heat from 55F groundwater into my 70F house. (Standard system is pumping heat from 25F air into a 70F house) When it is 95F outside, my system pumps heat from my 74F house into 55F water (standard system is pumping heat into 95F air) When outdoor temps are the same as the groundwater, geothermal systems aren’t as efficient because you are powering a water pump vs a fan. In climates with 3 or less seasons, geothermal systems aren’t as efficient, especially if they are closed systems. Now to answer your question, the innovations which are increasing the efficiency of geotherm systems are the same innovations which are increasing the efficiency of standard air exchange systems. Most of the energy consumed by a HVAC system is being consumed by the the refrigerant compressor and advances in compressor motors is allowing for much greater efficiency.
Learn about Geothermal Heating & Cooling and how it can save your family tons in heating and cooling costs. Fowler Heating and Cooling, has been serving Sout. . .
Hi, I am trying to help my parents get new home owners insurance. I was asked the following questions: 1. What type of electrical wires are there in the home? 2. When were the electrical & plumbing last updated ? I have no idea where to find the information. Can anyone help? This is a single family home in California, built in 1950. After speaking to others on the web, I found the answer. You will need to contact the local city building or zoning, possibly the tax assessors to determine age of structure. Some homes built in that time period could have aluminum wiring which was phased out later in the building codes as electrical wiring. If a permit was ever pulled for work to be done on the house , there would be a record of that. So first step is contact local building or permit section of your local government (city, village etc). You contact a plumber and electrician for an estimate to upgrade and this may cost you nothing. Things to remember: Do not ask about anything unrelated to those areas, allow the person to look at what he or she needs to to give you a fair evaluation. Do not commit to anything but do say” I am looking to get a loan to do this work and need to know approximate cost”.
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My 2 year old son flushed a pull-up (potty training diaper) down the guest bathroom toilet. It’s been a week since it happened, the guest bathroom has been flushing but very slowly. We thought it was fine and it would fix itself but tonight we came home from being away for a couple hours and both bathtubs and both toilets in my house were backed up and over flowing with water which caused the master bedroom, the hallway and the guest bathroom to be flooded with water. We will be calling a local plumber as soon as they open but we don’t have a very expendable account and I’ve always heard that plumbers are usually quiet expensive. I’m a single mother that lives alone, I have minimal knowledge about plumbing, is there anything I should know to avoid being ripped off? How much would you estimate a repair like this costing? P. S my brother in law already tried snaking our sewer lines but it did nothing. I was happy to learn… A good, honest plumber will charge $200-300 to come out and snake the system, knowing that the kid flushed a diaper. He should be there for about an hour and a half, have a powered snake, and it should resolve the issue. I don’t know your location, or how many plumbers there are in your area, but I would try to find one by referral.
This Video shows you the replacement of an old cast iron pipe to PVC done by Olin Plumbing Inc.
I have a large house and I have VERY large outbuilding. We bought the house as a ruin forty years ago for £3000 now it has excallated in value and it is now worth a vast amount. Nevertheless, we don’t have any real use for the outbuildings. Unfortunately the roofs of the outbuilding are asbestos, they’re covered with moss and they look awful. We want to renew the roof. , however as the roof is about 150 square metres, the cost to replace this is horrendus. I want the new roof on the outbuilding to blend with the roof on my house and I don’t mind if the new outbuilding roof look like farm outbuilding roof, because our house was originally a farm house. I don’t want to go right down market, however I hope that someone can suggest a fairly posh corrigated sheeting. Ideas PLEASE. From what I can tell… I assume the outbuildings have pitched roofs? You could use a material named Colorbond, which is a powder coated corrugated steel cladding, and makes a good, long lasting roofing material. It’s extremely popular in Australia, where they clad buildings in it, build fences etc. Another idea to consider is to use reclaimed tiles or slate, much cheaper than new material. Bear in mind that you’ll need a licensed specialist contractor to remove & dispose of the asbestos, and they will not be cheap. Failing that, why not demolish the outbuildings and sell the bricks/stone etc to a reclaimed materials yard, landscape the area where they stood, and bingo-150sq metres of extra garden.
I just bought a house that has been completely redone. I moved in a couple days ago and already have a plumbing problem. I contacted my home warranty company and they said they will pay for the damage and new cement but not to replace the broken pipe (which is under my patio slab). I bought this through a real estate company and had an inspection done on the home. Obviously there was no mention of this by either. What are my options? Home in Louisiana. I was so glad to find this — I am a plumber, and have also done plumbing work for American Home Shield, which is a home warranty company. They will never cover anything “outside” the foundation of your home. It will be in the contract and even if you put on your gorilla suit, like the other guy said, they will not waiver on anything outside the foundation of your home, sorry. That being said, did you have the slab leak from day one or did it present itself a few days later onward? Your realtor MAY be able to get any recompense, but I doubt it. Slab leaks are easy to repair, just very time consuming to get to to make the repair that’s why it’s usually expensive, the labour involved to repair. The concrete is probably the cheapest part of the repair, and if it was outside, you probably don’t have much damage, so the home warranty is skating free. I assume, like California, a home warranty comes with your first year of purchase of a home automatically, I wouldn’t renew afterwards. When I was a home warranty tech, I was told to put “band-aids” on as much as I could and try to deny as much as I could, not by the home warranty co. , but by the plumbing company I worked for contracted by the home warranty. That’s why I left, I thought it wasn’t fair to the consumer, I just don’t have a head to rip people off, especially for the betterment of someone else. Since the leak is outside, I would call a plumber and see that if that line is going somewhere you don’t even really need since it’s outside maybe it’s going to a hose-bibb you no longer need or a sprinkler valve you could do without and he/she can isolate it and say goodbye to the line itself. Otherwise, it appears you may have to tear up the patio and repair it or otherwise get the line re-routed. Either way expensive. Good luck. By the way, also check and see if you have high water pressure. That could have caused the slab leak to begin with. A lot of times high pressure will do that. It should be 50-70 psi definitely no more than 80 psi. You can check it yourself. Assuming you have a regular tank water heater, go to a hardware store, get a pressure gauge for about 5-10 bucks. Go to your water heater, where the water drains out and screw the gauge on there nicely and open the drain on the water heater, if it is a newer water heater, you may need a flat-head screw driver to open it. And check your gauge. You can even leave the gauge on there permanently to check out your pressure. No worries it will not leak unless you’ve crossed threaded it. Check it the next day for leaks. Here’s a couple of things: 1. Accurate pressure relies on NOTHING being opened in the house, not even a toilet running. U will get an inaccurate reading. Of course, since you have a slab leak, unless you isolate (shut-off) that line, you will have to wait for the repair to check the sysem pressure. 2. If you do remove the gauge from the drain of the water heater dont forget to CLOSE the valve up first, or you will get scalded. 3. You can check the pressure at a hose-bibb instead, but unless you are absolutely certain that the bibb is AFTER the pressure regulator, I always check at the water heater because I know it’s a regulated system. 4. In older homes, you may not even have a pressure regulator, in that case install one if your pressure is high. 5. As a matter of usual inspection, the water pressure should have been checked by the home inspector, PLEASE don’t take this for granted, as a plumber I always run into new home owners where the inspector has listed the pressure as normal and I have found sometimes 180 psi, any inspectors just won’t do their jobs right and unfortunately, you sign off on any kind of liability with them. 6. In rare cases, you may have a thermal expansion problem, that is, that when you have the gauge on the water heater and you turn it up (the temp) all the way and if that psi climbs significantly, then you have thermal expansion and not so smart plumber will only check a static line to see the pressure. Have the plumber check it at the heater with the burner going full blast if you have thermal expansion, it can easily be rememdied with a thermal expansion tank by the heater. Lastly, if your water heater is old, over 10 years, I wouldn’t mess with the drain, it might not close back up correctly because the rubber seals have been set in a certain way for so long, when you disturb the rubber, it has no pliability to seal back up, so check at the cold side of the bibb thaty serves the washing machine. That’s another great place. Or if the drain on the heater is plastic, be very careful, if that plastic is old and you try to screw a gauge on too tight, the drain will crack and you may get scalded and create water damage. Good Luck. I am at garyfertei@yahoo. Com if you have any further questions.
The importance of getting a plumbing inspection before you buy your next house. Mike Holmes’ plumber, Marcin Wroblewski from Express Rooter, performs a plumb. . .
We just moved into our home 2-3 months ago. Thank goodness it is still an unfinished basement. We would like to try and rectify noise issues before going ahead and finishing it. Any ideas what would this may be? I hear *pop pop, tap tap* noises in our basement quite a bit. Our water pump (tap tap) and pipes (pop pop) do this repeatedly throughout the day. I’m not sure if the source is the pump, other pressures, heat settings, or if this is somehow normal? Maybe there is a problem with our water pressure? Areas within the local vicinity of the water pump seem to be just as loud (not too loud) as the water piping at the opposite end of our basement. It seems to travel around the pipes. This is the reason I’m guessing pressure. Because. when held, the hot water pump pipe gently tap taps a vibration that gradually fades after a few minutes. After the water pump settles down from tap tapping, so does the pop, popping from the rest of the water piping in our basement. There is a slight rattle that can be heard from the main floor bathroom pipes when the water is being turned off. This does not happen very commonly and has yet to occur on the second floor of the home. I first thought, maybe the pipes are rubbing against the wood support beams of our basement and creak, popping. This doesn’t sound like a good symptom anymore. I realized the noises occur even when all water is out of use. It is easy to chalk any noise into Canadian Winter heating, expansion and contraction of our a/c vents. This is clear to me. EEK lol Any help would be greatly appreciated. Best Answer points will definitely be awarded to the best answer. Oops sorry. Our house is 6 years old. Well, I have your answer. The noise problems in your basement are commonly from thermal expansion. Suggestions (1) Check all water line hangers / Are they secured with non – metal hangers or straps to floor joists?If not replace them with nylon pipe hangers which encompass pipe 360 degrees. These straps allow for noiseless expansion and prevent creaking on joist. (2) Water flow in piping is noisy / Install good pipe insulation, recommend ARMAFLEX / Used commercially for domestic water and energy efficiency also will prevent pipes from sweating in the summer. This insulation will muffle the system. (3) Check all hand dampers on duct work / They can be a souce of noise from expansion and noise (4) Duct seal duct work / This is a commercial mastic that prevents air loss , prevents noise and is energy efficient (6) Install aluminum faced duct wrap on all supply ductwork / Very energy efficient and will help muffle noise. (7) The rattle heard in bathroom area is water hammer from quick closing toilet ballcock and faucets. Install mechanical hammer arresting cartridges in accessible area as close to bath room as possible. (8) Insulate water heater/ Helps muffle noise and improves energy efficiency. Prior to finishing basement (1)Examine future ceiling and wall areas and re- locate any plumbing valves, door bell transformers, hand dampers on ductwork for future accessability. Access panels are also an option. (2) If possible enclose furnace, water heater, build a mechanical room/ Insulate walls and ceilings with SOUND INSULATION. This also can be used in basement ceiling. Its great if you own a pool or ping pong table. (3) Mechanical room door must be louvered at bottom for combustable air for furnace and water heater.
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