Home Plumbing

I got home from work today to find out that we have no running water in the house. I’m not sure if the water has been cut off or if it is a plumbing problem. Water has been flooding out of the toilet tank and the washing maching. Water got all over my floors. We turned off the valves to both but the toilet still floods. Any ideas what is going on here? Maybe the water was cut off and the extra water is coming from the water heater? Perhaps some pipe has a leak? I can’t call the water company until tomorrow, they were already closed when I got home from work. I live in a neighborhood that has a shared water valve, so I can’t turn that off. The meter in the yard has no valve to turn off. Help. The water flooding from the washer and toilet is coming from their cold water valves. It’s cold, clean water. Essentially — you should still have a shut off for the water supply for your house even if there isn’t one at the meter in the yard. I suggest looking for it. You also didn’t say if the water was coming out from the drains or the supplies. If you shut off the supply to the toilet and water is still pouring out it may be the drain backflowing somehow. Sounds like you may need to call a plumber asap. since it sounds like it is the water supply, look in the basement for a shut off trace your water lines back or look on the side of the basement that the water meter is on. If it’s a crawl space, same thing. there should be a shutoff if there isn’t, someone made a boo boo.

See more: Learn about the secret life of your home’s plumbing system, including how water flows into your home and how the drainage syst. . .


Roofing Material

I am doing the roof of my garage with corrugated plastic, and I will need to cut into it to make it fit some rounded areas. How on earth do you do that though? This stuff seems to be uncontrollable. Any experience, anyone? Thanks. After looking around, I learned — Be careful not to use snips as the material will crack around the cuts and could shatter. Use either a fine bladed hand saw which will take time to cut. Do not push the saw as this could cause the cracking again. Let the saw do the work with just a gentle pressure. The blade should be thin similar to a junior hacksaw. You can use a power jig saw but the same rules apply. Little pressure and let the saw move forward slowly. With the power saw be sure to have the material held down around the cutting area. Alternatively by the flat plastic twin wall material and this is a little easier to work with and will last for far longer as the corrugated material becomes brittle after a relatively short time. I have done perhaps 50 garage and car port roofs over my working life.

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Plumbing Pipes

I want to replace my kitchen taps (one hot and one cold) with a mixer tap so I’ll need the existing water pipes to be moved towards each a few inches each (where the mixer tap is going to go). Can I simply bend the copper pipes so they reach? Do I need to be careful of anything? Could there be anything I need to do before I bend them? Thanks very much, all help is greatly appreciated. I was happy to learn… Get some flexible tap connectors cut the pipes off and use the flexible connectors it is a bit awkard to bend pipes in situ as 15mm+ pipes would need a tool to bend it and from what you describe its a small distance its easier to use flexible connectors or amend pipe work approx 6 inches or more below the connection at the moment

Learn how to properly insulate around plumbing pipes so you don’t have to worry about them freezing.


Geothermal Heating Cooling

. Basically… There are two types of geothermal energy. Hi temperature geothermal is dependent upon volcanic activity to heat water to steam that can then run turbines and produce electricity. The type of geothermal energy used for heating and cooling is dependent upon refrigeration techniques that use the ground for a heat sink or a heat source (depending on if it is being used for heating or cooling) It is sometimes called a “ground source heat pump system. “1 While the appropriate wells can be drilled almost anywhere using a body of water avoids the expense of wells altogether and makes this form of heating/cooling very economical. 3 The wells are the major expense. Alternatively long coils can be buried 6 to 10′ underground where this is more practical. 2 While the initial installation can be quite expensive, “with the passage of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, you will receive tax credits worth 30% of the cost (no limit or cap) to install an Energy Star qualified geothermal heat pump in your home to help offset the higher installation costs (system must be installed before December 31, 2016). Visit www. Energystar. Gov for more information. ”

Learn about Geothermal Heating & Cooling and how it can save your family tons in heating and cooling costs. Fowler Heating and Cooling, has been serving Sout. . .


Toilet Plumbing

Hello. I am having an issue with a Kohler toilet. The bowl fills pretty high but the tank takes about 4 minutes to fill high enough to raise the float and turn the water off. The water pressure is very strong so that is not the issue and the rubber flap is brand new. Let me know if you need more info since i’m not sure what else to describe. Thanks. After looking around, I learned — OK, you say the tank fills but takes a long time. Assuming there are no leaks, the tank will hold the water it fills with. Your only issue is how long it takes to fill. Pressure is one thing. Flow is another. You can have 100 pounds of pressure but if you’re filling your tank through a pin hole it will take forever to fill. On a different hand, you might have only 10 pounds of pressure but if you’re filling it through a 2 inch hole, it will fill fairly quickly. Assuming there are no problems with the tank and its ability to hold water, your issue sounds like a flow problem than a pressure problem. And I’ve seen this before. A neighbor had a slow filling toilet so she bought a new tank valve assembly and installed it. But it didn’t solve her problem. When she asked me if I knew anything about it I realized that her issue was the same as what yours sounds to be. So I had her turn the water off and I disassembled the water valve on the wall. When I got it opened I could see there was a ton of calcification in the valve, choking off the supply. We went back to the hardware store and bought a new valve and installed that. Turned the water on and the toilet was full in around 30 seconds. It’s been a long time so I don’t remember if that was ACTUALLY the time it took, but it did fill at a normal speed, and her problem was solved. I’d suggest you turn off the water to the toilet and drain your tank. Disconnect the feed hose from the toilet inlet and get a bucket. Put the hose into the bucket AND HOLD IT THERE with one hand and with the other, turn the water back on and see if you get a lot of water fast, or if it’s a mere trickle. If it’s a trickle then you’ve confirmed the water flow is not there. Next, shut the main water supply off and bleed off all the pressure from both hot and cold lines. Then turn the valve on the water heater off too. Why? Because it can cause a residual pressure making water flow and you can have a spill. No sense in getting water damage in the house. With the main off, remove the handle from the toilet valve (if you can) then remove the cover nut that holds the valve together. Remove the guts and inspect. If you see a bunch of hard stuff clogging the valve then you know you need a new valve. Don’t attempt to clean the valve and reuse it. Chances are that when you need to shut it off in the future you won’t be able to. A new valve is cheap enough and is good insurance that the job is done right and can be used at a later time. If none of this helps then you might have a clogging pipe. There can be considerable buildup inside galvanized plumbing. The only solution for that is to replace the plumbing. If you have copper, they shouldn’t build up mineral deposits the same way galvanized does. But copper is softer, and it’s possible – though remote – someone may have accidentally hit a pipe and caused it to pinch or kink. But I really doubt that. Or you may have PEX tubing (for all intents and purposes, plastic). That stuff is really hard to damage or kink. But I suppose if one tries hard enough, the line COULD be compromised. But I still suspect that somewhere you have galvanized pipes that have necessary mineral deposits. My home is completely redone in PEX. I love the stuff. Easy to work with and fast. Re-plumbed the whole house in about six hours time. BUT I still have a galvanized line from the meter to the house. At some point I will probably have to dig that out and replace it with either copper or PEX. Too bad there’s no easy way to pull one out while pulling the other in. I’ll have to dig up the whole yard for that one. Lets hope I never have to. Best of luck with your project. ‘&#039

WEBSITE*** This video covers how to install a toilet. Includes how to remove a toilet bowl or pan and cistern and install th. . .


Plumbing Problems

I am looking into getting into plumbing in canada and I would like to know some of the details on it. I am already accepted to a plumbing course and I would like to know if its steady work or long periods during the year without work. Because I want to work steady. Is it extreamly hard work or not? Any details would be perfect. I was happy to learn… Plumbing is pretty steady work, because you do more than just unclog people’s drains and stuff. The plumber can be useful for anything that involves the piping and fluid service to a home or building, and that includes installation of piping for newly built homes or buildings. You may also be able to contract yourself to universities and other large corporations for good money to do the piping and service to their buildings. Do a good job and they’ll ask for you again. Plumbing and electricians are good fields to get into because they’re skilled trades that everybody needs.

Shannon from shows you how to cut copper plumbing pipes and solder copper pipes together with an elbow joint.


Roofing Shingles

The flat roof on a rental properties carport had a bad section of wood. It was rotten. I cut out, removed, and replaced a 48″ x 32″ piece of rotten plywood with a piece of good wood. I cut the roll roofing a couple of inches beyond the cut of the wood. Now I need to put any sort of asphalt roofing back on to replace the rectangular piece of roll roofing that I removed. I have a bundle of plain white 3 tab shingles and a plenty of roofing felt, but no roll roofing. Could I cut the tabs off the plain white shingles and use the remaining pieces along with any lap compound to cover the wood in the hole that I fixed? Or should I break down and buy a full roll of roll roofing even though I’ll probably never use it all. What I found out was – I would buy the roll roofing as it is designed for this purpose. You could, depending on code, coat it with tar and do your own asphalt job on it. That would probably be cheaper and last longer. But the shingles are a bad way to go, unfortunately.

Please visit our ebay store at . . . Www. Minthillbillystore. Com This video shows the importance of the starter shingle and how and where to place it. As well a. . .


Plumbing Home

Map of underground pipes in my home. Well, I have your answer. It is very doubtful that your local Building Department would have required plumbing schematics when your house was built. I have only ever heard of one Building Department ever requiring plumbing schematics. Even if plumbing schematics are available, they do not show where the pipes are, just how they are laid out, and they wouldn’t be “as-builts”, only proposals. The best way to find out is to find out where the building drain leaves the basement. This is found by the cleanout that you will find in newer homes. Not so much in older houses. It will be a 4 inch ABS screw cap that is left level with your concrete floor slab. If you know this location, it would be the shortest route to the plumbing fixtures. There is no science to it as many of the elbows will be 45 or 90 degree elbows and you never know where they will be. Sorry for the bad news. Hopefully it is not an emergency.

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Roofing Material

I like to get some estimates for a new robber roof but have no idea what material to ask for. Can someone tell me what is good to use on a flat roof. Thank you. Basically… They are named membrane roofs. They are all made of the same composite material. Just get two or three estimates and ask each one to describe the material so you get a consistent comparison. They are glued on in as few sheets as possible and they will last forever. Be very sure they give you detailed information on how they intend to position and do the edges for drainage that will go into the gutters and not run down the wall behind the gutters. Also, do a review of a electrical, venting and insulation work that might need doing in that ceiling before the membrane is installed. That’s always much easier and cheaper from the top down.

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Plumbing Fittings

I’m interested to know as many different companies that make polypipe and fittings to suit (e. G. Viega) that are suitable for Hot/cold water and natural gas. I have found many that are suitable for hot/cold but not for gas. I am installing plumbing into my own home and prefer to use as little copper piping as possible, its just easier to buy a roll and chop it to length than having huge long RIGDID lengths of copper tubing. *RIDGID. Do you know what I found? I Don’t know the building codes down under. I didn’t think you guys had plumbing. Here we Yanks use black iron piping for gas lines. Copper is mostly used only for flexible connections to a kitchen stove or dryer so they can be moved when you clean or for minor repairs. Any kind of plastic piping for gas is a dumb idea (sorry.) because of the danger of it being broken accidentally. I’m sure it will come as a big shock, but we Yanks don’t know everything. I’m guessing, so don’t put any faith in my opinion that copper lines would probably be okay. The best thing to do is check with your building codes, assuming you don’t live in the outback somewhere where you can do whatever you want.

32 years in this business has shown me a thing or two. Using sharkbite fittings is quite easy to do for the average home owner. . . . Please subscribe and have a . . .


Plumbing Installation

Hell• i’m currently doing plumbing and electrical installation level 1 at college. I have been offered a place in electrical installation level2. This means I only have 2 years of college if I go into level two but my maths is not very good. . So im not sure if I should go and do it although im not really bothered which one I do?. someone help me please with any good advice. Many thanks . After looking around, I learned — === no P . . Go to the E-install for the money === if you are good at the E-biz then you will have more work than you can ever hope to handle and the money is very good . . And when you run into a social security granny you can lower the bill and feel good that your life is in the right place . . Electrical work will always be there and you can do it yourself and have helpers that you can teach and send off to college. .


Plumbing Problems

Who is allowed to do plumbing on a commercial property in California? Is just anyone allowed to plumb on a commercial property in CA? For example: the maintenance man? Does the maintenance man need a plumbing license? Please, if anyone knows. Well, I have your answer right here. Most plumbing laws are in effect where only a master plumber or his licensed employees can work on a job until it has a final inspection by the plumbing authority for that area. After that the owner can do any thing he wants BUT being a build with other residents other then the owner ? Call the city plumbing inspector, Id ask

Shannon from shows you how to cut copper plumbing pipes and solder copper pipes together with an elbow joint.


Roofing Contractor

Wantto know what to ask contractor when gives me a estemet on my roof. I think I found an answer. 1. License 2. Insurance ( Make sure its for roofing or else you will pay in the end if his work fails and his insurance is for handyman or carpenter ) 3. How long he has been in buisness 4. Ask if he personally does the work, or if he has a crew 5. Ask if he will be present on the job 6. Ask type of warranty 7. Ask what type shingle he uses (owens corning, Certainteed etc ) what are the advantages of this product 8. Ask how much ventilation is needed and what product he uses 9. Make sure he puts new flashings up and not re-uses old ones 10. Ask for any discounts/promotions his company runs Most dimensional shingles offer a lifetime warranty on shingle failure which must be installed to manufacture specifications, if it is not followed they will deny your claim so make sure on what product he uses he follows the specifications. also he can’t guarantee you a lifetime roof, he can only guarantee his workmanship for a certain period of time, dont fall for the “i guarantee this roof for life line” its only guaranteed if its followed by manufacture specs and like I said to a T . .


Geothermal Heating Cooling

I understand that it is essentially a loop in which a refrigerant travels around through the Earth’s interior either cooling or heating and in the end expending that temperature into a home or building. As we know, technology is always progressing and ways of becoming more innovative and efficient are always just around the corner. . So my question is. . 1. ) What are any efforts or discoveries that increase the efficiency of the energy conversion in the process of Geothermal heating and cooling? So from what I interpret, are there any new ways to make the refrigerant travel faster. . Different types of refrigerant that are more efficient. . A compressor that is able to get the job done more efficiently. . Etc. . I had an idea though, I heard different types of refrigerants may be used such as air, water. . Etc. After looking around, I learned — I agree with the prior poster that your understanding is not accurate Basically a Geothermal HVAC (or Ground Source Heat Pump) uses water or a water/antifreeze mixture in the heat exchanger. This water is either recirculated in a very long underground pipe system (closed system) or drawn from a well, lake or other water source (open system). In cooling mode (A/C) a geothermal heat pump uses refrigerant to move heat from the building into the water via a heat exchanger. In heating mode, it operates in the reverse and moves heat from the water to the refrigerant and ultimately the building. A standard heat pump operates in the same manner however instead of using ground temperature water, it uses ambient temperature outdoor air. The greatest advantages of geothermal heat pumps in a 4 season climate is that they are much more efficient than the alternative when outdoor temperatures are at their extremes. For example: When it is 25F outside, my geothermal system is pumping heat from 55F groundwater into my 70F house. (Standard system is pumping heat from 25F air into a 70F house) When it is 95F outside, my system pumps heat from my 74F house into 55F water (standard system is pumping heat into 95F air) When outdoor temps are the same as the groundwater, geothermal systems aren’t as efficient because you are powering a water pump vs a fan. In climates with 3 or less seasons, geothermal systems aren’t as efficient, especially if they are closed systems. Now to answer your question, the innovations which are increasing the efficiency of geotherm systems are the same innovations which are increasing the efficiency of standard air exchange systems. Most of the energy consumed by a HVAC system is being consumed by the the refrigerant compressor and advances in compressor motors is allowing for much greater efficiency.

Learn about Geothermal Heating & Cooling and how it can save your family tons in heating and cooling costs. Fowler Heating and Cooling, has been serving Sout. . .


Plumbing Home

Hi, I am trying to help my parents get new home owners insurance. I was asked the following questions: 1. What type of electrical wires are there in the home? 2. When were the electrical & plumbing last updated ? I have no idea where to find the information. Can anyone help? This is a single family home in California, built in 1950. After speaking to others on the web, I found the answer. You will need to contact the local city building or zoning, possibly the tax assessors to determine age of structure. Some homes built in that time period could have aluminum wiring which was phased out later in the building codes as electrical wiring. If a permit was ever pulled for work to be done on the house , there would be a record of that. So first step is contact local building or permit section of your local government (city, village etc). You contact a plumber and electrician for an estimate to upgrade and this may cost you nothing. Things to remember: Do not ask about anything unrelated to those areas, allow the person to look at what he or she needs to to give you a fair evaluation. Do not commit to anything but do say” I am looking to get a loan to do this work and need to know approximate cost”.

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Plumbing Repair

My 2 year old son flushed a pull-up (potty training diaper) down the guest bathroom toilet. It’s been a week since it happened, the guest bathroom has been flushing but very slowly. We thought it was fine and it would fix itself but tonight we came home from being away for a couple hours and both bathtubs and both toilets in my house were backed up and over flowing with water which caused the master bedroom, the hallway and the guest bathroom to be flooded with water. We will be calling a local plumber as soon as they open but we don’t have a very expendable account and I’ve always heard that plumbers are usually quiet expensive. I’m a single mother that lives alone, I have minimal knowledge about plumbing, is there anything I should know to avoid being ripped off? How much would you estimate a repair like this costing? P. S my brother in law already tried snaking our sewer lines but it did nothing. I was happy to learn… A good, honest plumber will charge $200-300 to come out and snake the system, knowing that the kid flushed a diaper. He should be there for about an hour and a half, have a powered snake, and it should resolve the issue. I don’t know your location, or how many plumbers there are in your area, but I would try to find one by referral.

This Video shows you the replacement of an old cast iron pipe to PVC done by Olin Plumbing Inc.


Roofing Materials

I have a large house and I have VERY large outbuilding. We bought the house as a ruin forty years ago for £3000 now it has excallated in value and it is now worth a vast amount. Nevertheless, we don’t have any real use for the outbuildings. Unfortunately the roofs of the outbuilding are asbestos, they’re covered with moss and they look awful. We want to renew the roof. , however as the roof is about 150 square metres, the cost to replace this is horrendus. I want the new roof on the outbuilding to blend with the roof on my house and I don’t mind if the new outbuilding roof look like farm outbuilding roof, because our house was originally a farm house. I don’t want to go right down market, however I hope that someone can suggest a fairly posh corrigated sheeting. Ideas PLEASE. From what I can tell… I assume the outbuildings have pitched roofs? You could use a material named Colorbond, which is a powder coated corrugated steel cladding, and makes a good, long lasting roofing material. It’s extremely popular in Australia, where they clad buildings in it, build fences etc. Another idea to consider is to use reclaimed tiles or slate, much cheaper than new material. Bear in mind that you’ll need a licensed specialist contractor to remove & dispose of the asbestos, and they will not be cheap. Failing that, why not demolish the outbuildings and sell the bricks/stone etc to a reclaimed materials yard, landscape the area where they stood, and bingo-150sq metres of extra garden.


Plumbing Home

I just bought a house that has been completely redone. I moved in a couple days ago and already have a plumbing problem. I contacted my home warranty company and they said they will pay for the damage and new cement but not to replace the broken pipe (which is under my patio slab). I bought this through a real estate company and had an inspection done on the home. Obviously there was no mention of this by either. What are my options? Home in Louisiana. I was so glad to find this — I am a plumber, and have also done plumbing work for American Home Shield, which is a home warranty company. They will never cover anything “outside” the foundation of your home. It will be in the contract and even if you put on your gorilla suit, like the other guy said, they will not waiver on anything outside the foundation of your home, sorry. That being said, did you have the slab leak from day one or did it present itself a few days later onward? Your realtor MAY be able to get any recompense, but I doubt it. Slab leaks are easy to repair, just very time consuming to get to to make the repair that’s why it’s usually expensive, the labour involved to repair. The concrete is probably the cheapest part of the repair, and if it was outside, you probably don’t have much damage, so the home warranty is skating free. I assume, like California, a home warranty comes with your first year of purchase of a home automatically, I wouldn’t renew afterwards. When I was a home warranty tech, I was told to put “band-aids” on as much as I could and try to deny as much as I could, not by the home warranty co. , but by the plumbing company I worked for contracted by the home warranty. That’s why I left, I thought it wasn’t fair to the consumer, I just don’t have a head to rip people off, especially for the betterment of someone else. Since the leak is outside, I would call a plumber and see that if that line is going somewhere you don’t even really need since it’s outside maybe it’s going to a hose-bibb you no longer need or a sprinkler valve you could do without and he/she can isolate it and say goodbye to the line itself. Otherwise, it appears you may have to tear up the patio and repair it or otherwise get the line re-routed. Either way expensive. Good luck. By the way, also check and see if you have high water pressure. That could have caused the slab leak to begin with. A lot of times high pressure will do that. It should be 50-70 psi definitely no more than 80 psi. You can check it yourself. Assuming you have a regular tank water heater, go to a hardware store, get a pressure gauge for about 5-10 bucks. Go to your water heater, where the water drains out and screw the gauge on there nicely and open the drain on the water heater, if it is a newer water heater, you may need a flat-head screw driver to open it. And check your gauge. You can even leave the gauge on there permanently to check out your pressure. No worries it will not leak unless you’ve crossed threaded it. Check it the next day for leaks. Here’s a couple of things: 1. Accurate pressure relies on NOTHING being opened in the house, not even a toilet running. U will get an inaccurate reading. Of course, since you have a slab leak, unless you isolate (shut-off) that line, you will have to wait for the repair to check the sysem pressure. 2. If you do remove the gauge from the drain of the water heater dont forget to CLOSE the valve up first, or you will get scalded. 3. You can check the pressure at a hose-bibb instead, but unless you are absolutely certain that the bibb is AFTER the pressure regulator, I always check at the water heater because I know it’s a regulated system. 4. In older homes, you may not even have a pressure regulator, in that case install one if your pressure is high. 5. As a matter of usual inspection, the water pressure should have been checked by the home inspector, PLEASE don’t take this for granted, as a plumber I always run into new home owners where the inspector has listed the pressure as normal and I have found sometimes 180 psi, any inspectors just won’t do their jobs right and unfortunately, you sign off on any kind of liability with them. 6. In rare cases, you may have a thermal expansion problem, that is, that when you have the gauge on the water heater and you turn it up (the temp) all the way and if that psi climbs significantly, then you have thermal expansion and not so smart plumber will only check a static line to see the pressure. Have the plumber check it at the heater with the burner going full blast if you have thermal expansion, it can easily be rememdied with a thermal expansion tank by the heater. Lastly, if your water heater is old, over 10 years, I wouldn’t mess with the drain, it might not close back up correctly because the rubber seals have been set in a certain way for so long, when you disturb the rubber, it has no pliability to seal back up, so check at the cold side of the bibb thaty serves the washing machine. That’s another great place. Or if the drain on the heater is plastic, be very careful, if that plastic is old and you try to screw a gauge on too tight, the drain will crack and you may get scalded and create water damage. Good Luck. I am at garyfertei@yahoo. Com if you have any further questions.

The importance of getting a plumbing inspection before you buy your next house. Mike Holmes’ plumber, Marcin Wroblewski from Express Rooter, performs a plumb. . .


Plumbing Pipes

We just moved into our home 2-3 months ago. Thank goodness it is still an unfinished basement. We would like to try and rectify noise issues before going ahead and finishing it. Any ideas what would this may be? I hear *pop pop, tap tap* noises in our basement quite a bit. Our water pump (tap tap) and pipes (pop pop) do this repeatedly throughout the day. I’m not sure if the source is the pump, other pressures, heat settings, or if this is somehow normal? Maybe there is a problem with our water pressure? Areas within the local vicinity of the water pump seem to be just as loud (not too loud) as the water piping at the opposite end of our basement. It seems to travel around the pipes. This is the reason I’m guessing pressure. Because. when held, the hot water pump pipe gently tap taps a vibration that gradually fades after a few minutes. After the water pump settles down from tap tapping, so does the pop, popping from the rest of the water piping in our basement. There is a slight rattle that can be heard from the main floor bathroom pipes when the water is being turned off. This does not happen very commonly and has yet to occur on the second floor of the home. I first thought, maybe the pipes are rubbing against the wood support beams of our basement and creak, popping. This doesn’t sound like a good symptom anymore. I realized the noises occur even when all water is out of use. It is easy to chalk any noise into Canadian Winter heating, expansion and contraction of our a/c vents. This is clear to me. EEK lol Any help would be greatly appreciated. Best Answer points will definitely be awarded to the best answer. Oops sorry. Our house is 6 years old. Well, I have your answer. The noise problems in your basement are commonly from thermal expansion. Suggestions (1) Check all water line hangers / Are they secured with non – metal hangers or straps to floor joists?If not replace them with nylon pipe hangers which encompass pipe 360 degrees. These straps allow for noiseless expansion and prevent creaking on joist. (2) Water flow in piping is noisy / Install good pipe insulation, recommend ARMAFLEX / Used commercially for domestic water and energy efficiency also will prevent pipes from sweating in the summer. This insulation will muffle the system. (3) Check all hand dampers on duct work / They can be a souce of noise from expansion and noise (4) Duct seal duct work / This is a commercial mastic that prevents air loss , prevents noise and is energy efficient (6) Install aluminum faced duct wrap on all supply ductwork / Very energy efficient and will help muffle noise. (7) The rattle heard in bathroom area is water hammer from quick closing toilet ballcock and faucets. Install mechanical hammer arresting cartridges in accessible area as close to bath room as possible. (8) Insulate water heater/ Helps muffle noise and improves energy efficiency. Prior to finishing basement (1)Examine future ceiling and wall areas and re- locate any plumbing valves, door bell transformers, hand dampers on ductwork for future accessability. Access panels are also an option. (2) If possible enclose furnace, water heater, build a mechanical room/ Insulate walls and ceilings with SOUND INSULATION. This also can be used in basement ceiling. Its great if you own a pool or ping pong table. (3) Mechanical room door must be louvered at bottom for combustable air for furnace and water heater.

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